The schematic will work with either Off-Road, Back-Up, Headlights or any Auxiliary Lighting can be hooked up with slight variations on this schematics. All grounds are grounded back to a terminal strip or stud not to the body or frame, this will reduce electrical problems from poor grounding through rubber mounts, rust, corrosion, paint and grease. If you have a relay that has pin 87a, this will work but be aware that pin 87a will be live with Battery Power when the lights are off; this is good if you are getting creative but not so if a wire or a tool hits it and things start to short out.
It is a simple device that has the characteristic of changing its resistance based on the amount of light that hits it. Its resistance will be lower when a light is shone on it. When the light is removed the resistance will be at it's highest.
This is most commonly used on horse trailers, stock trailers, and utility trailers. Note that the wiring colors are the Pollack Company suggestions and not necessarily what you can expect to find. The terminal positions as pictured below are standard for this style connector. When changing connectors match the positions from old to new or better yet test for function and be sure the connector is wired to the standard code.
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Since my current residence is only half finished, there are a lot of fixture-less light boxes in the ceilings—which means I am tripping over tools in the middle of the night more often than I care to admit. Electrical DIY projects are not a favorite of mine; probably a result of being shocked as a child by the current from a cut phone line or perhaps the innate fear of sudden death by electrocution. But for simple electrical work around the house, a little knowledge and the right tools can make the work slightly less intimidating and—more importantly—less shocking.